BigBlock Cams (Ultradyne)

4 Comments

1. I have been researching cams for my 67 new yorker 440. I have gone to many websites and forums only to be disappointed with what I have read. So I have decided to try to find recipes through books but I only find applications for super cars on the street. The motor is going to be stock external components (stock square bore intake, hp exhaust manifolds, electronic igintion, etc…) The car runs beautiful but I would like a little more out of it. I purchased a set of 516 closed chambered heads port and polished with the hp setup (stock intake valves & bigger exhaust valves). Basically, I would like to have some kick _ _ _ power on the highway while at the same time have a nice little roll in the idle. I hope i am not asking for too much.
   A) What cam selection would work for me?
   B) Do I need to degree it in? (I just want to line up the timing gears and go)
   C) Do I need a specfic stall on my convertor?
   D) Also, becasue the car is so long, will a posi unit help me or do me harm if it rains out?
   I currently have 2.76 non posi rear and it’s alot fun on the highway. This thing can keep up with the wind, I would like it to leave it behind every now and then.
   Thanks and I hope to hear from you.
   Kurt.

2. Hello Kurt,

   I am by no means an experienced engine-builder with plenty of cam-knowledge.
   But I do know that on a heavy car with a long gearratio in the rearaxle, you really want a cam that makes power(torque) at lower rpms.
   Usually this means a cam with higher lift, and not much more duration.
   You could even decide to install 1.6 ratio rockers, to increase valve lift.

   With a performance cam, degreeing it is always a smart thing to do. You never know upfront if for instance your timingset is built ‘wrong’, or cam has it’s index-pin or lobes ground at a slightly wrong location.

   With stock’ish cams you won’t need a higher stall convertor. Although it will let the engine rev a little higher before it grabs and therefore feel faster, it can also make your car feel mushy when taking off normally.
   But for a ‘cruiser’ I would suggest to keep the stock stall convertor.

   A SureGrip will only be necessary if you like to burn the tires once in awhile.
   On a heavy car a SureGrip won’t be ‘scary’ in the rain, unless you install very wide tires which lessen the grip on wet streets a bit.

3. why don’t you have any specs on hydraulic roller cams? They are becoming more popular.

4. Hi there. I’m building an eddy rpm headed 451 lowdeck 4spd street engine.Looking for solid flat tappet cam. Do you have any torque specs for your 570-278 dur with that engine?Did your engine have any mods(compression,heads-intake cnc’d etc). What type of intake and carb was used?I’ve got a victor single but am considering rpm dual plane for street use.Car is lightened up(3000lbs) with 4.10 dana and a 30″ tire.No creature comforts here.Need torque down low(2500-4500) if possible.Can offset grind crank for a few more cubes as i will be buying rods.Have pistons already( J.E. 1.312).